S. Salute - THE Place to see Costumes

Two years ago when I was here for Carnivale, my friends had told me how many of the people in "serious" costumes gathered on a Thursday morning at Basilica Santa Maria della Salute (a church on the other side of the Grand Canal from San Marco.  Because I had taken my best costume pictures there last time, this morning we headed off fairly early and were at S. Salute by 9.  Most of the people were going to be arriving at 10 am but, even so, there were a lot of professional photographers hanging around and already some impressive costumes there as well.  So, we began to wander around snapping away and, after about two hours, my sister and I had both taken close to 200 photos!  So, without any further ado and because so many people have asked me to post them, here are some (and only some!) of the creative and amazing costumes.  I will post more later - and plan to have photos of ones that don't quite meet the bar, so to speak!  For all the beautiful creations, there are others at the opposite end of the spectrum!

  

    

La Maschera

La Maschera - or The Mask (not to be confused with mascara although that is close to how it is pronounced in Italian with just the 'a' and the 'e' being different).  

When we were planning this trip, Faye noticed there was a free presentation about masks being given at one of the famous mask maker shops in Venice, Ca' Macana.  Given that masks are such an essential part of Carnival, we all signed up and attended it on Tuesday morning.  It did not disappoint.  The following information comes from the information Mirka told us, plus more which was found on the shop's website and the Internet.  

History records that the first Carnival was in around 1094.  During the 13^th century, Carnival was banned and really only re-emerged as a celebration as we know it today in 1970s.  Masks, however, remained popular throughout that time.  In the 18^th century, they became particularly as they provided people with anonymity when they were out; for example, they were required to be worn in the casinos.  Further, the masks created equality – between the nobles and the commoners.  During that time, the masks were worn for six months of the year between October and May.  When Napoleon took over Venice, masks were forbidden.  With the celebrations of Carnival, they became popular again.

Mirka, the woman who gave the presentation, told us initially there were 3 types of tradition Venetian masks:  La Bauta, La Moretta, a black velvet mask, and Il Dottore della Peste, associated with the plague.  The picture below shows all three types.

Because the word for mask, la maschera, is feminine, people wearing a mask are greeted with La Signora Maschera, regardless if they are a woman or a man.

La Bauta:  

La Bauta is considered to be the traditional Venetian mask.  It is mostly used to cover your features and made in a way that it is still possible to eat and drink without having to take it off.  The Bauta is always white and it is not only a Carnival mask, in the sense that, in those times, it could also be used all year long to protect one's identity. It consists not only of the mask covering the face but also finely woven lace (the Zendal), and a black hat with three tips (tricorno) holding it all in place.

La Moretta

La Moretta, a plain black velvet mask worn by women.  The Moretta was held close to the face without the use of laces by biting a button on the mask between the teeth.  A lady who wanted to wear the Moretta, therefore, remained completely silent.  Hence, the other name for this mask, La Muta.  

The mask completely covered the face in order to appear more attractive ('visible').  That may seem like a contradiction but it was not so according to the special logic of Venetian women.  These women were rather uninhibited in showing their bodies, as evidenced by the mode of fashion called “décolleté alla veneziana”, famous throughout Europe.  It featured a very generous, square neckline while the breast area was veiled in a light fabric, which covered the chest precariously. It was also common to make up the nipples with carmine red so as to make them more 'visible' behind the transparent fabric.  If what was on display was meant to attract attention, what was hidden behind the Moretta was regarded as the true treasure to be discovered:  their inner world, their intentions and feelings.  It should be understood that, with this mask, women did not only express an innocent desire to be seen but, much more mischievously, to be powerfully seductive. They were openly playing the game of seduction across Venice.  Covering her face with this mask of seduction and staying silent at the same time, a lady's intentions were completely indecipherable.  And so it was the woman herself who decided whether she remained anonymous and silent or whether she decided to respond to the attentions, if not the advances, of some suitor.  By removing the mask, the lady offered not only the longed-for sight of her face but also the sound of her voice, considered a faithful mirror of the soul.  Only the truly fortunate had the privilege to admire that face and to hear her voice but it would have taken a brave man to seduce a woman without knowing what he was getting - as well as bold, since he would have had to convince her to reveal her secret.

Il Dottore della Peste

Il Dottore della Peste, the mask with the long nose has its origins with the plague and is not specific to Venice as it was worn by doctors in the 15^th, 16^th and 17^th centuries all over Europe. Herbs, spices and straw were stuffed up the nose of the mask with the idea that this prevented the disease being contracted and provided protection from the putrid smells. 

The presentation continued with a demonstration of how the traditional masks are made using layers of papier mache shaped by a mold.  Once the mold is dry, it is painted white and then decorated or repainted. 

Once the mask is taken from the mold and it is dry, it is painted white and then repainted and/or decorated.

Clearly, the masks have evolved to the amazing designs we see today and there are a myriad of styles in addition to the three basics that started the mask tradition.

 Further, in every photo we take of people in costumes, you can see even more imaginative and impressive creations.  They truly are works of art!